Barrier Support: Lipid Bilayer Component of the Skin Barrier

Skin barrier health is a hot topic right now, right along with the subsequent ways of addressing it.  Words like skin barrier and ceramides are popular search terms on google causing a good deal of confusion among the average consumer with there being a number of ways to support the barrier and even more ways of compromising it.  One such method of support is to place a superficial barrier on top of the skin using an emollient rich or occlusive product.  Supporting the skin’s natural barrier function will boil down to supporting the specific ratio of natural lipid components found within the epidermis. 

Barrier Health

Between corneocytes and the specialized lipid matrix they are suspended in, this barrier acts as both the skin’s second and third lines of defense.  Together they form a waterproof lamellae structure to defend against uncontrolled water loss and invasion of external pathogens. This structure is often compared to a brick wall with the corneocytes acting as bricks and the lipid bilayer being the mortar.  The lipid bilayer component of the skin barrier is primarily made up of approximately 50% ceramides, 15% free fatty acid, and 27% cholesterol.  While ceramides are the most well known part of the epidermal lipids, they are not the only component which needs to be addressed in order to achieve and sustain a healthy barrier.  In fact, it has been shown that due to a reduction in cholesterol synthesis as we age, a cholesterol dominant ratio of these lipids is going to be more beneficial towards barrier health and recovery than a ceramide dominant lipid profile.  

There are many factors which can contribute to an impaired skin barrier: inflammation, UV exposure, water quality, skincare, diet, climate, stress, genetic predisposition and age are just a few things that factor in.  Due to many of these components being factors most people experience in the course of a single day, we can understand how a decline in barrier health can occur during the typical 14-16 hours of awake time.  During sleep, skin is able to recover with the help of the natural circadian rhythm and so long as this process is not disrupted, the skin barrier is usually at its healthiest in the mornings. 

Supporting the skin barrier is a crucial foundation to overall healthy skin.  Starting the day off with barrier support and ending the day with barrier repair can help ensure skin is well defended against the many issues which can stem from a compromised barrier.  Using products with appropriate lipid profiles and taking age and other skin conditions into consideration when deciding the level of support a client will need, will help ensure the barrier remains healthy and functional. This will not only protect the skin from external aggressors but will also minimize TEWL and enhance benefits from other products, ingredients and modalities chosen to use on the skin.  Well hydrated skin allows for better cellular function, healing and promotes sustainable skin health and longevity.  

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